The freshness of the trail has worn off. After 4 days of hiking, we´re starting to see fatigue setting in. However, we all made it to Rabanal. After a warm lunch and long siesta, we´re feeling ready for the day ahead of us which will take us up to our highest peak tomorrow.
Day 3 Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga, 15k
Astorga and the Guitar Man
Today our destination was the Albergue de San Javier in Astorga. Some of the best authors and leaders in this world tell us that it’s not about the destination, but rather the journey that takes us there. Today’s walk, for me, felt like the actual start of this journey, and it was the first time I truly understood what those quotable authors/leaders were talking about.
I was with Mary, Louan, and Christie for a good majority of the walk and we could not stop talking about the gorgeous snow capped mountains ahead of us. I think today felt like the real first day because of these mountains, flowers, and all of nature’s beauty that surrounded us. In the midst of our conversation, we reached a hill and when we got to the top there was a stop-worthy view: a wooden cross with rocks all around the base, beautiful Astorga and mountains in the distance, and an elderly man with a guitar, singing of the pergrinas and Santiago. The rest of the walk was a breeze and we even met a man with a feathered hat who showed us around his beautiful village and then walked us to our Albergue.
It’s the little things like the conversation, the tiny snow-capped mountains that grow with every step, the cross, the village, and the people that allowed me to see that the journey really is everything. Today marks my favorite day thus far.
Katie MacDonald
Day 2 Villar de Mazarife to Orbigo
Day 1 León to Villar de Mazarife
First day on the Camino and our group has proven to be Hokie fuerte! At 7:15 a.m. today we met in the foyer of the Hospedaria, the beautiful monastery on León where we stayed last night, to eat a meager breakfast before heading out on our very first day as Peregrinos. We walked four miles before stopping for second breakfast, one of many excellent Camino traditions. After drinking yet another cafe con leche, we trudged through 13 miles of cold, blustery winds with smiles on everyone’s faces. By 1:30 p.m. we reached the Albergue de Jesus. We threw down our packs and sunbathed in the grass until comida was served, a hot paella made just for us. The journey to Santiago is off to an auspicious start!
Hokie Pilgrim: Jessica Mueller
Los Ancianos
Today we began our Camino. For those of us who didn’t enjoy the café con leche, the blustery wind tunnels created by the sand colored buildings of León did the job. After a quick photo-op by the cathedral we were on our way. We walked as a group through most of the city, clogging up the pathways for the locals. I’m sure there used to seeing 3 or 4 peregrinos on there walk to work but I’m guessing an excitedly babbling group of 16 college students is not the norm. That being said, I decided to hang around the back of the pack where it was quieter and had a bit more space to move around.
What I found so far is that our group draws people’s curiosity but its size does keep them at bay. What I mean by that is within the first five minutes of hanging back from the pack, I was approached by a man asking, “What are you?” I figured out he was referring to our entire group and informed him of our affiliation with Virginia Tech and how we planned to walk the Camino and then study language in Santiago.
His name was Ehr (or at least that’s what it sounded like). He is a retired doctor with a wife, 4 children and 10 grandchildren from Northern France. It was his second time walking from San Jean. We talked for a kilometer or so until we stopped for second breakfast. It was at the Cafe where I met Jorge, an 82 year old Norwegian headmaster who has walked the Camino 6 times.
I had many questions for him and he had many things to share with me. We walked together for a while until I returned to our group. The trend continued. On the trail I kept stumbling upon these older folks and chatting with them. We would talk for a bit and once the conversation had run its course, I would move on. I met a food inspector from Belgium and her two friends from Holland. The three woman were very kind and very concerned about the condition of our feet. They wished us well on our trip.
The thing that I am beginning to realize on the Camino is that when you say “Buen Camino” to somebody, the equivalent to goodbye on the trail, it’s not really a goodbye. Nearly all these people I met on the trail I saw again when we arrived in Villar de Mazarife and the conversations picked up where we left off.
The older people I have met on the Camino have really embodied the role of mentors. They love to share what they know and love to hear all about our aspirations and plans. I look forward to seeing my new found friends along the trail and picking up new ones along the way.
At the end of the first day I am looking forward to the next.
Hokie Pilgrim: Bryan Boeing
The Path
As we set out of Leon this morning and became true Peregrinos, we all had one thing on our mind…The path of The Camino. We knew that 21.5 km lay ahead of us but we did not know what they were to include. It was all a mystery. We first found the path in front of a breathtaking Cathedral in Leon. This was a very fitting beginning of our pilgrimage. The path continued to take us through the middle of town. It took us by underground houses, through the industrial side, and across bridges. It eventually spit us out, 6 km later, on the other side of Leon. Here our journey continued. We trekked across fields, through farmlands, through mud, and down roads. We met other Peregrinos from all over the world, all of which continued on their personal journeys. We walked and bonded, while continuing our journey on The Camino. Finally, after around 1 pm, we arrived in Villar de Mazarife. Our walk on the path of The Camino had ended for the day, and we all welcomed a beautiful afternoon to rest.
Hokie Pilgrim: Lindley Sytz
Finally on the open trail
Avila
Palacio Real in Madrid
The route
Santiago, the destination
A moment like this
By Coryn
How do you even write down or find the words to describe the experience of finding yourself in the plaza in front of the Cathedral de Santiago after walking for 16 days? I can try, but let me preface this whole blog with the fact that these words are nothing in comparison to the experience.
We got up at 5:30 AM to make sure that we got in to Santiago before the pilgrims mass at noon. It was so strange to wake up in the dark and prepare for our last walk. We started out and had flashlights and headlamps and we entered back onto the trail in this forest where the trees create this perfect canopy to walk under.
The sun started to come up and we were all trekking on towards the city we thought we would never reach. Along the way we were hearing about Mt. Joy, the last obstacle to get over. Everyone was grumbling and worrying if we had enough energy to get over it, and then the funniest thing happened. We were standing on top of Mt. Joy next to this huge monument and looking down on Santiago. We almost let the fear of the climb keep us from the top, and in the end, the challenge was nothing in comparison to what we are capable of doing. The view was breathtaking and heart breaking because we were still an hour out.
So the sprint begins. You are on the outskirts of the city and are following little copper shells that are cemented in the pavement throughout the city. Then you see the first spires of the church over the buildings and you’re heart skips a beat. Then you start to hear street musicians playing bagpipes and Galician guitars, and you’re smiling from ear to ear because you know you’re almost there. Out of nowhere there is a descending staircase with a giant archway, and the music is overpowering, and hoards of pilgrims are rushing, and you reach the bottom, and turn to your right, and stop. You are standing in a giant plaza with the cathedral dominating the entire view, thousands of pilgrims hugging and crying, people running and snapping pics, and then others just taking in the culmination of their journey.
And there I was. Standing in the middle of this square staring up into this architectural and religious masterpiece. Spoiler Alert: I was crying. It was overwhelming and exciting all at once. You couldn’t believe you had made it, and then you were watching the other pilgrims and understanding exactly what is happening to them.
Then you walk into the church. You smell, you have everything you own on your back, you’re standing amongst thousands of others, and you feel tiny in comparison to the size and the ornate-mess of the cathedral, but you don’t feel out of place. You have never felt more right in your location. And while you don’t understand the whole mass, you do. The music, the prayers, the unity. Then the giant incense starts to swing across the whole church, and the pilgrims are cheering and the tears come again.
And then it’s over. And it’s shocking. Assimilating back into society these past two days has been strange. Not carrying your belongings and having more than one pair of pants has been nothing short of a miracle. And what do you do? What does this mean from here on out?
I ran into Kari (our Oregon friend) while we have been enjoying Santiago, and she made a great point. Is this trail a realization or a life lesson….what’s the difference? And she laid her wisdoms on me….
We realize a lot of things about our life on the trail, but we make this journey a life lesson when we apply our realizations to our life.
So that’s the next journey. Apply everything to my life. That sounds so lofty, and I guess it is, but if I’m lucky, I have nothing but years ahead of me to try. And if I had to start anywhere it would be with these:
1. Take each day as it comes. No need to race toward tomorrow, or let the hard days overpower you. Together they blend into the journey.
2. You can do it. Whatever it is. You can.
3.Take the time you have now and enjoy it. Before you know it, it has passed
4. Remember that everyone is on a path. We walk it differently and at different speeds and we may even take alternate routes, but it’s all the same. Show compassion.
And honestly I could go on for hours, but that’s not the point. So I’m honored to have had you all here with me, and I can’t wait to share the stories in person. The adventure will continue in Santiago if you care to follow, but for now, my Camino is complete.
Xoxo from Santiago
Hokies hiking the Camino de Santiago 